Philippines
SEASONINGS
Filipino flavors are built in layers, then finished at the table. First, the cook builds the base in the pot, but the diner also cooperates and participates while choosing and adding sawsawans (dippings) entirely to his liking, and that transforms the whole taste and experience.
Filipino cooking is organized among the three dominant axes of sour, salty-umami, and sweet. The very core flavors are salty and sour, as sweetness appears, but rarely dominates. Heat is optional and very personal (except for Bicol region and Mindanao, where spice pastes and chilies are prominent). Filipino cooking also conspicuously skips fresh herbs as a finishing element, which Thai, Vietnamese, and Indonesian cuisines rely on heavily.
Salt is fundamentally important to preserve from spoilage, it comes through patis fish sauce, bagoong isda fermented fish paste, bagoong alamang fermented shrimp paste, and soy sauce. Salt as a bare mineral is the condiment of last resort. Umami comes from those same fermented ingredients, from long-cooked meat broths, from dried and smoked fish added to stews, and from annatto-colored fat used to start dishes.
Then the saltiness is paired with sourness, which also helps preserve. The Philippines uses vinegar on a fundamentally different scale and in a structurally different way than its neighbors do. Neighboring cuisines use chili to wake up the senses, but Filipinos use vinegar, and this is the core distinction. Vinegars come from palm sap, coconuts, sugarcane, and sugarcane wine. Sourness extensively comes from fruits – tamarind (sour fruit pod), calamansi (tangy citrus), kamias (cucumber tree, acidic green fruit), guava, green mango, batuan (small green sour fruit).
Anato (achiotte) is a coloring spice. It consists of annatto seeds fried in oil, which turn dishes a bright orange-red color. Simmering ingredients in coconut milk — a technique called ginataan — appears often. Coconut milk gata absorbs and carries fat-soluble flavors, softens acidity, and adds richness. Ginger deodorizes fish and meat, warms broths; bay leaves, a direct inheritance from Spanish cooking, feature braises — adobo, mechado, kaldereta. At the table, achara — green papaya pickled in vinegar and spices — sits apart from the sawsawan lineup to cleanse the palate.
Filipinos flavor building starts with gisa. The gisa is the base for adobo, kare-kare, mechado, afritada, monggo, pancit, many soups. From its contents, it has a lot of ties with Spanish sofrito. Garlic goes first, browning until golden and fragrant. Onion follows, softening in the garlic-infused oil. Tomato goes last, its liquid is released to form the base liquid of the dish.
One of the most personal parts of a Filipino meal is sawsawan, a fundamental Filipino dipping sauce, and ultimate flavor customization tool. Some common elements in the sawsawan lineup include:
Suka (vinegar) — usually cane or coconut, sometimes spiced with garlic and labuyo. Used with virtually everything fried or fatty. The vinegar cuts grease and provides the sour axis.
Toyo (soy sauce) — thinner and saltier than Japanese soy sauce, provides the salty-umami axis. Often combined with calamansi to make toyomansi, the most common everyday condiment.
Patis (fish sauce) — patis has many uses in the Filipino kitchen: as a dipping sauce, as a source of salt, and as a flavoring agent. Many Filipino cooks use it instead of salt. In sinigang, for example, there is no salt in the ingredients list; the dish is finished with patis, which adds salinity as well as its own distinctive flavor.
Calamansi — provides the bright, floral citrus note that lime and lemon cannot replicate. It is squeezed directly over anything that needs brightness.
Bagoong — Fermented fish or shrimp paste for deep, complex umami. It has specific pairings, most notably kare-kare and green mango.
Most sawsawan are assembled raw at the table. Lechon sauce is the major exception, and it is a genuinely unusual preparation as it includes water, sugar, breadcrumbs, vinegar, salt, liver, spices, and pepper. Ground roasted liver is the most important ingredient.
BANANA KETCHUP— condiment made from banana, sugar, vinegar, and spices. Its natural color is brownish-yellow, but it is often dyed red to resemble tomato ketchup. Uniquely Filipino, paired with fried chicken, hot dogs, and fast food
PALAPA — a traditional condiment from the Maranao people of Mindanao, consisting of a spicy and aromatic blend from chopped scallion bulbs, ginger, turmeric, chilies, and often toasted coconut.
Mexico
SEASONINGS
The chile pepper is the cornerstone of Mexican seasoning – fresh, cooked, dried, smoked, ground with salt and lime. Mexicans use cilantro, cumin, cinnamon, peppercorn, cloves, garlic, and onion extensively. Also, some native, often regional, ingredients:
- Epazote, a strong and earthy herb for beans and quesadillas
- Mexican oregano with more citrus and licorice notes than the regular;
- Papalo, an exotic herb which tastes somewhere between arugula, cilantro, and rue;
- Achiote/annatto, peppery spice, and reddish-brown coloring agent.
Some traditional spice blends include:
TAJIN – dehydrated lime, salt, dried ground chilies – used in fruits, vegetables, and snacks for a spicy and tangy kick. Used to sprinkle fruits, veggies, toppings for popcorn, nuts, chips, and aguas frescas.
MOLE SPICE BLEND – dried chilies, cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, cumin, allspice, cacao.
BARBACOA SEASONING – Used in traditional barbacoa, a mixture of guajillo chiles, cumin, cloves, black pepper, and bay leaves is common, sometimes blended with vinegar and other spices to marinate lamb or goat.
SAUCES
Mexican cooking embraces the concept of recado or seasoning pastes, where spices and chilies are ground together to create complex flavor bases.
MOLE SAUCES is a complex category of thick, rich sauces made of 20-30 ingredients and can take days to prepare properly. Key components are chiles, nuts or seeds like almonds, pumpkin seeds, peanuts, spices like cinnamon, cloves, cumin, anise, and something sweet, like chocolate, fruit, and sugar. The main ones are sweet and spicy, chocolaty mole poblano, complex and bitter mole negro, lighter and fresher green mole verde, herby, and tangy yellow mole amarillo. Moles are considered a Mexican dish in sauce form, commonly served over meats, with eggs or enchiladas.
GUACAMOLE – both a sauce and a dish made with mashed avocados, lime juice, cilantro, onions, tomatoes, and chilies.
ADOBO is a marinade-style sauce made with dried chiles, vinegar, garlic, paprika, tomatoes, onion, cumin, Mexican oregano, black pepper, cinnamon, and cloves. Adobada is Spanish is ‘marinated’, and it can refer to different types of meat as well as al pastor (spit roast) marinade.
SALSA ROJA is a classic red table sauce of red tomatoes and chiles, onion, and garlic that can be served raw, like pico de gallo, or roasted. Used in many dishes and as a table condiment, represents essential heat in Mexican cuisine.
SALSA VERDE – is a tomatillo, serrano or jalapeño, cilantro, onion, and lime juice sauce, fundamental to everyday cooking, used both raw and cooked for tacos, enchiladas, and as a table sauce.
PIPIÁN SAUCE – made from ground pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, and chilies such as poblano, serrano and jalapeño. Similar to mole, but lighter, served with carnitas, as an enchilada sauce, with roasted poultry.
ACHIOTE PASTE / RECADO ROJO – achiote/ annatto seeds, oregano, cumin, black pepper, garlic, cloves, cinnamon. Frequently used in Yucatan cuisine to marinate meats and fish, and flavor rice dishes.